Vallisto Torrontés 2023

Vallisto, Salta Province, Argentina

Torrontés has come a long way since its initial appearances in the UK market in the late 1980s. Back then it was certainly something different and interesting, but it was also prone to becoming ‘flabby’ quite quickly, often lacking the vital acidity for any kind of longevity. Often, too, there could be a bitterness on the finish due to a lack of gentle care when handling seeds and skins.

 

Today, Torrontés remains a grape variety somewhat on the margins of general popularity, but it has never been more exciting with its subtle exotic aromas and flavours and now lively, zingy acidity. Improved technology and earlier harvest times have helped along with an increased sense of domestic pride for Argentina’s flagship white varietal. Increasingly it is prized as a great partner to Thai and Peruvian cuisine and also as a delicious apéritif. This wine from Vallisto is a modern classic, retaining the scented nuances of Salta – arguably the true home of the grape – but offering pristine freshness in the mouth coupled with delightful length and poise.

 

In our humble view Torrontés will never reach mass appeal, simply because it has far too much innate personality to do so. It is quirky and characterful, and now reliably so! And of course, this is one of the indigenous Criolla family, probably the most famous; the offspring of Criolla Chica and Muscat d’Alexandria. For those who remain a tad sceptical about Torrontés, we urge you to try this beautiful example from 60 year-old vines at almost 2,000 metres above sea level.